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DINAS POWYS
The Huntsman becomes the hunted
I’d heard good things about The Huntman Restaurant from several friends and business associates who had become fans over recent years but had just never got around to booking a table. Now, after eating there, I wish I’d done so earlier.
Tucked away behind The Star pub in Dinas Powys, this really is a wonderful little find. So good, in fact, that I’m almost reluctant to share it.
When I say little, it’s a fair description. The restaurant is ‘compact and bijou’ as Delboy would say in Only Fools and Horses but the welcome is bigger - warm, friendly and inviting. This, I have to say, is a welcome relief from many establishments where the slick waiting can be a little cold and stand-offish.
Peter Rice, who owns The Huntsman with wife and chef, Hilary took our drinks order and ran through the menu. As we browsed, several diners arrived and it was clear, because of the happy banter, that these were regulars which I think is always a good sign – people generally don’t return unless they’ve had a good experience. We made our choices and were then shown to our table.
The ambience was perfect, low light, soft music - not stuffy in any way - just relaxing. It seemed quieter too – so many places we go to these days seem to be loud to the point where you can’t hear yourselves think. In this respect, The Huntsman was a welcome change. The kind of place that you could go for a romantic dinner or just to get away from the crowds.
Our starters arrived. My good lady had chosen the night’s special; scallops which were plump and perfectly cooked, resting on a fresh salad. I had chosen from the menu (very wisely as it transpired) - a light, creamy Chicken Liver Pate and toast, beautifully complemented by Apple Chutney - delicious and with tummies suitably cheered up, we waited for our mains.
Now with an 8oz Welsh Fillet Steak on the menu, I thought Jennifer was going to be a slave to the usual but, for a change, she opted for Roast Breast of Duck with Plum and Port Sauce and what a sauce. Light, fruity but not overpowering in any way, it was only bettered by the melt in the mouth duck that was cooked to something above perfection (if that is possible). I, on the other hand, had fallen in to the trap of choosing what I always seem to choose; Guinea Fowl - and how I fell... moist and tender, although I would have liked the skin with a little more crisp (but that’s for me to ask for next time). Drizzled with wholegrain mustard and cream sauce the taste was divine. Both dishes were accompanied by selection of seasonal vegetables that were cooked perfectly al dente.
I was driving so declined to drink but my good lady had a glass of white with her scallops which was beautifully light and complemented them perfectly and an equally good glass of house red with her duck. I have to say, the wine list is excellent - if I hadn’t been driving, I would have succumbed to a bottle of the Sancerre. Peter is very proud of his wine list and so he should be - it’s an intelligent selection and with a good range of Champagnes, should you be feeling a little flush or in a celebratory mood, you won’t be spoilt for choice.
And so to puddings, well pudding… Jennifer, was watching her figure, as she so eloquently put it, so declined on this occasion. However, with such a tempting array, I felt it would be bad form should one of us not surrender to the pudding board. I wrestled with the many choices but, in the end, decided on the bread and butter pudding which was simply excellent.
We rounded off the evening with coffees and reflected on what was an entirely enjoyable experience. If you’re looking for flash, arty food, go elsewhere. However, if you want beautifully home-cooked style food in surroundings that bring an air of calm and relaxation to your meal then look no further. I suspect as its reputation grows, this particular Huntsman will become the hunted.
The Huntsman
At the rear of The Star pub, Dinas Powys
029 2051 4900
Hours of opening Tues to Sat 7pm - 9.30pm for dinner
Thurs to Sun 12pm - 2pm for lunch
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